A Makeup Artist Shares Tricks for Runway-Ready Skin
When you picture models getting dolled up backstage at Fashion Week, your first guess may be that a ton of makeup is used to create over-the-top looks. It’s a fair assumption; after all, we are talking about one of the biggest beauty and fashion moments of the year. Sometimes though, designers ask models to embrace a more natural look when it comes to their makeup. And with the no-makeup makeup trend on the rise, we can’t say we’re really all that surprised. But before you start to think that no-makeup makeup looks take little to no prep work, check out our interview with makeup artist Kelli Bartlett, Director of Makeup Artistry at GLAMSQUAD. As you’ll soon find out, there’s quite a bit of strategy that goes into achieving a dewy, runway-ready complexion.
HOW TO GET ‘CRUSHED PEARL SKIN’
Backstage at the Carlisle show during Fashion Week, Bartlett was working on giving models ‘crushed pearl skin,’ which can be achieved in part by adding moisturizer to the skin in layers. “I’m calling [it] the ‘crushed pearl skin with a universal bronze,’” Bartlett says. “It’s that no-makeup makeup look that everybody’s leaning into right now, but that doesn’t mean it’s not multi-layered. Every single moisturizer you could possibly ever imagine—pack all of it on.” As Bartlett clarified, she applied three layers of moisturizer onto the skin to create a dewy glow, with—one of our favorites—Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream acting as the base. “By this point your skin is already so hydrated and so glowy that you just need a whisper of foundation,” she says.
EXPERT TIPS FOR CONCEALING IMPERFECTIONS
Between the long hours, lack of sleep, and constant traveling, it’s not easy for a model to maintain flawless-looking skin at all times, especially during such a busy time. Makeup artists know that, and are prepared with tips and tricks to help hide the evidence of too little sleep, whether it be dark circles or puffy-looking eyes. Of course, you don’t have to be a model to suffer these side effects. Here are Bartlett’s go-to solutions for concealing imperfections in a pinch.
Tip #1: Apply a Cold Compress
When the skin under the eyes appears puffy, cool compresses like under eye patches can help vasoconstrict the area. “I’m obsessed with under eye patches,” Bartlett says. “I did one on one eye and not the other and I noticed a difference.” If you don’t have under-eye patches handy, you can try de-puffing your eye area with a chilled spoon, washcloth, cucumber slide or tea bag during your morning routine.
Tip #2: Use a Color Corrector
Concealers and color-correcting fluids can help camouflage areas of discoloration, including dark circles, easily. That said, it’s important to apply them the right way and in the right quantity. “Truthfully, I’m all about color correctors, but it’s about being strategic,” Bartlett says. “Once you start putting too much product under your eyes you can start to look a little suspicious. Be strategic with where you place the product. For counteracting dark circles, deep peach, peach, pink, and yellow hues can help.”
Try: Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Color Correcting Fluid in Peach or Deep Peach, $29 MSRP
For a dewy look, Bartlett recommends reaching for a lavender-hued color corrector. Lavender can help neutralize yellow tones and a dull skin appearance, correcting the canvas so it looks more radiant. Placing a few dabs on the cheekbones, eye contour, brow bone, nose, and inner-corners of the eyes can help you achieve a more lifted, lit-from-within look.
Try: Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Color Correcting Fluid in Lavender, $29 MSRP
If you have a big event coming up (whether it’s a wedding, runway, or red carpet), you may want to switch up your routine and introduce a bunch of new products in hopes of looking flawless by the time the big day comes. It sounds logical, but Bartlett advises against it. “When you’re a week out, my recommendation is that you don’t change too many things because that’s when your skin starts to freak out,” Bartlett says. “I say stick to your normal routine. If you want to add a little bit more sleep and drink a little bit more water, you’re never going to go wrong. That, and cleanse with lukewarm water only. Hot water can be irritating to the skin.”
Editor’s note: For more tips on how to create a smooth and glowing complexion, turn to these five simple steps to getting your best skin yet!